Thrusters
The first test design will have a total of 3 thrusters all mounted
at the amidships or at the center half way between the bow and
stern. The two main propulsion thrusters will be mounted on
either side of the hull. They will steer the hull with
differential thrust. For example to turn sharply to port, the port
thruster will run in reverse and the starboard thruster will push
forward. If maintaining trim with a single vertical thruster
is not practical then a syntactic foam shroud for the thruster may
be added or two thrusters used. Kort nozzles on the drive
thrusters will also be tested in order to determine if the
additional protection for the prop and thrust is worth the
additional drag. We can experiment with using 90 degree flex
shafts that would allow the motors to be housed outside of the
thruster tube but I think the maintenance on the flex shaft and
added complexity would not be offset by the increased performance.
Instead we can program the controller to compensate for the
decreased performance when operating in the motor in reverse.
Our starting point for testing will be to duplicated the OpenROV
groups test done on the Rotor, 5-Blade: Delta-V 15
Part # EFLDF151 blade as a baseline. Then test additional
blade to try and imporve on the amp-hour/thrust ratio achieved by
OpenROV and HomeBuiltROV's
Motors Used in Test Below:
HomeBuiltROVs: 750 gph bilge pump
OpenROV: 2213N 800Kv Brushless Motor
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Forward |
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Reverse |
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Manuf |
Part Number |
Blades |
Diam
mm |
Pitch
mm |
Volts |
Amps |
Watts |
Thrust grams |
Grams
/Watts |
Amps |
Watts |
Thrust grams |
Grams
/Watts |
Source |
Rule? |
Impeller |
3 |
n/a |
n/a |
12 |
2.80 |
33.60 |
n/a |
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n/a |
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HB ROV |
Robbe |
ROB1471-72 |
3 |
50 |
42 |
12 |
6.00 |
72.00 |
817 |
11.35 |
5.50 |
66.00 |
635 |
9.62 |
HB ROV |
Robbe |
ROB1464-65 |
3 |
60 |
45 |
12 |
6.50 |
78.00 |
680 |
8.72 |
6.30 |
75.60 |
363 |
4.80 |
HB ROV |
Robbe |
ROB1487 |
3 |
60 Kort |
45 |
12 |
6.40 |
76.80 |
680 |
8.85 |
6.00 |
72.00 |
363 |
5.04 |
HB ROV |
X-Brand |
RA3007 |
2 |
35 |
? |
12 |
4.20 |
50.40 |
590 |
11.71 |
4.00 |
48.00 |
408 |
8.50 |
HB ROV |
X-Brand |
RA3008 |
2 |
40 |
? |
12 |
5.20 |
62.40 |
726 |
11.63 |
5.00 |
60.00 |
499 |
8.32 |
HB ROV |
X-Brand |
RA3009 |
2 |
45 |
? |
12 |
5.80 |
69.60 |
726 |
10.43 |
5.00 |
60.00 |
590 |
9.83 |
HB ROV |
X-Brand |
RA3010 |
2 |
50 |
? |
12 |
6.10 |
73.20 |
771 |
10.53 |
6.00 |
72.00 |
635 |
8.82 |
HB ROV |
Graupner |
GR1 124 |
2 |
35 |
? |
12 |
2.15 |
25.80 |
408 |
15.81 |
2.00 |
24.00 |
272 |
11.33 |
HB ROV |
Graupner |
GR1 128 |
2 |
45 |
? |
12 |
6.00 |
72.00 |
680 |
9.44 |
5.80 |
69.60 |
454 |
6.52 |
HB ROV |
Graupner |
GR230840 |
3 |
40 |
? |
12 |
2.65 |
31.80 |
590 |
18.55 |
1.95 |
23.40 |
136 |
5.81 |
HB ROV |
Graupner |
GR230850 |
3 |
50 |
? |
12 |
4.45 |
53.40 |
998 |
18.69 |
3.65 |
43.80 |
272 |
6.21 |
HB ROV |
Graupner |
GR230850 |
4 |
50 |
? |
12 |
3.80 |
45.60 |
680 |
14.91 |
3.10 |
37.20 |
363 |
9.76 |
HB ROV |
Eflight |
Delta V-15 |
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n/a |
11 |
6.00 |
66.00 |
480 |
7.27 |
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OpenROV |
Graupner |
2308.65 |
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65 |
34 |
11 |
6.00 |
66.00 |
1100 |
16.67 |
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OpenROV |
HomeBuiltROV's Testing:
http://www.homebuiltrovs.com/mayfair750test.html
OpenROV Testing:
Test Stand
http://openrov.com/forum/topics/thruster-testing-stand
Test Results
http://openrov.com/profiles/blogs/preliminary-propeller-efficiency-testing
Rotor, 5-Blade: Delta-V 15
Part # EFLDF151 $7.99 |
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Graupner 2308.65 is 200% more
efficient than the 5-Blade: Delta-V 15 |
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OpenROV Parts
2213N 800Kv Brushless Motor
3mm shaft, Outrunner Max 9.5A 11V |
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OpenROV Parts
EZRUN 18A Brushless ESC $24
Output: Continuous 18A, 2-3S LiPo |
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OpenROV Parts
2213N 800Kv Brushless Motor 3mm shaft, Outrunner Max 9.5A
11V
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8622__2213N_800Kv_Brushless_Motor.html
EZRUN 18A Brushless ESC Output: Continuous 18A, 2-3S LiPo
http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-18a-v2-esc-for-rc-car.html
Propeller Selection
The great thing about RC motors is they are cheap and powerful.
The bad think, especially about inrunners RC motor, where the shaft
spins and not the motor housing, is that they run at a very high
rpm. That's not so bad when it's pushing a little RC boat at
40 mph across a duck pond, but when it's pushing a heavy ROV and
towing an even heavier cable at 1 knot, or 1.15 mph then the normal
of an RC racing boat blade is completely wrong. Boat propeller
blades have three major measurements, the diameter and number of
blades are the first two and these account for the blades surface
area. The more surface area the more traction you have in the
water, just like big tires on a monster truck. So for and ROV
more surface area is a good thing. Note that most RC race
boats only have two small blades. Next is the pitch of the
blade. I imagine turning a blade through a block of jello so
that as you turn the blade one complete revolution it cut cleanly
through your desert. The distance the blade travels in one
rotation is the blade's pitch. So a blade with a typical RC
race boat propeller is something like 2.1 inch per revolution.
That 2.1 inches does not sound like much but these motors really
scream. A 800kv motor will in theory do 800 rpm per volt of
electricity. So connect that 800kv motor to an 11v battery and
you get 8800 rpm. But don't do that. Running the motor
with no load is bad for it. So lets say that it really turns
at sane 5000 rpm under load. In on minute it should travel 2.1
inches x 5000 = 10500 inches or 875 feet. In 60 minutes that's
60 * 875 = 52,500 feet/hour or just under 10 mph. So maybe the
prop wants to do 10 mph but there is no way it's going to move the
ROV at 10 mph. The difference is called slippage.
Slippage is normal, but it's best when it only about 10% of the
props effort. A prop with big slippage is moving the water
sideways, when it should be moving it backwards. So if we want
the ROV to move at 4 knots or about 2,430 ft/hr or 405 ft/minute or
4,860 inches/minute with a motor running about 5000 rpm then we a
prop with a pitch of 4860/5000 = just under 1 inch. A Octura
model #0930 prop has a diameter of 30mm, and a pitch of 1.062
Belt Driver Propeller Idea. |
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Test Motors
After taking our various motors apart we found that all but the
HobbyKing Donkey use little bearing on both ends of the coils.
The HobbyKing Donkey has a single brass bearing. We like that
design because it provides no air pocket that will compress and
allow seawater to pass through the bearing. So oil in the
bearing will stay in place longer and collect less debris.
Thermal epoxy for potting the coils. |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RIOuPMg99GA
Other Motor Options
Gear head motors:
http://www.pololu.com/category/51/pololu-metal-gearmotors
Gimbal Drive Motors:
http://hobbyking.com.au/hobbyking/store/__976__973__FPV_Telemetry-Gimbal_Motors.html
Servo Motors:
http://www.servocity.com/html/planetary_gearbox.html
Ceramic bearings:
http://www.bocabearings.com
Prop Chart:
http://www.funrcboats.com/prop_chart1.htm
Prop Calculator:
http://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/RCcalculator/BoatCalculator.php
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